Sunday, 31 October 2010

Manna from heaven

For many in low income countries the most preventable of gastrointestinal illnesses and infections related to poor living conditions are still a persistent threat. So it was hoped that a campaign involving education in the villages in which we are working on a “Hygiene Day” would serve as a basis for health improvements.

The mothers of the three villages were invited to participate in a lecture for which they would receive a gift in return. I observed the situation in a village of approximately two hundred families near the city. The day consisted of a talk by a local nurse who explained how mothers could help to prevent the spread of disease with some simple techniques. Literature was handed out to remind the mothers for when they returned home about what they had learnt. Finally, boxes with sanitation products were handed out.

What code, moral, economic or political, should serve as a basis for intervention? Is this ever a question worth asking; for if we have a sense of empathy with all the peoples of this world, then we may believe that working in low income countries is no different to social action in our own. Yet there is a difference which will be left unsolved unless we probe the intricacies of each case on its own merit.

I want to concentrate on two interrelated issues surrounding the hand-out of ‘aid’ boxes with the UNICEF logo. First, as a small organization which intends to provide for long-term and sustainable solutions, was this damaging to the communities for which we work? And second, is the work we are trying to do to educate villagers any more welcome and suitable than handouts?

Building trust within a community is always difficult – it is a process which takes time yet, just as one bad experience can colour future judgement, so too can a negative event. The sight of queues of mothers waiting for UNICEF aid boxes, only to be turned away left a feeling of discomfort in me. People fought over boxes and children commandeered condoms to play with as party balloons; this all added to the sense that damage might have been caused by our activities. Alas, as an outsider to the project, I cannot be so sure that we have been guilty of producing  lasting damage but I hope not.

Just what happened is not quite clear. Was the UNICEF puppet master pulling our strings, using us as its emissary to the communities; or were we more than just complicit in this situation but ultimately culpable. In return, I am sure we will receive some realizable linkages with the UN organizations that will be beneficial in the long term. However, that Manichean process in which we are now caught may affect our long-term goals. So was I worth giving the hygeiene kits? Some may call what we did pragmatism, others may argue that we were deviating from our goals to provide a platform for self-sufficiency as opposed to dependency. As always, the answer is far from simple.

Saturday, 30 October 2010

The road

As I have stated previously, the Presidential elections will be held on the 28th November. There are almost 20 candidate vying for the top job in Haiti but what is of greater interest to me is how events revolving around Port-au-Prince affect provincial towns such as Leogane.

One has also to remember that this is hardly the only contest of import going on in Haiti at the moment. As I wrote in my last post, the civil servants of the Civil Protection Authority (DPC), whose role is to coordinate emergency relief for its people, are also up for ‘re-election’ by their association with Rene Preval and his hand-picked successor, Jude Celestin. Patronage is a crucial facet of the Haitian state and the need in election year to demonstrate an ability to finesse concrete improvements out of NGOs and the Haitian state is vital for their survival.

Last week the bridge connecting one of the large NGOs in Leogane to the city was destroyed as a protest by the citizenry. Since the earthquake, the government has failed to resurface or level any of the roads. This is an acute situation felt daily by the residents. The trucks make it worse and the lack of drainage fills the holes with rainwater, creating a quagmire that leads to extensive disruption. At least either by mototaxi, on foot or by 4x4 this is manageable. However, when as a protest the people collapse a small bridge connecting the city to the more provincial areas where three or four NGOs live, including ourselves, this becomes an unmanageable issue.

A solution was found at a meeting chaired by our organization to reconstruct the bridge with NGO money and local contributions. In addition, the community ought to provide some volunteer work for the process. Never wishing to be accused of cynicism, I wait with intrigue for donations and volunteers to materialise.

What is certain is the project will be completed under the auspices of the mayoralty, thus ensuring they take the credit for what was essentially a protest by the people.  I welcome the protest, so long as it is peaceful and achieves results; however, this adroit piece of vandalism by the community put the NGO community in an unmanageable position. The NGOs had no option other than to succumb to political pressure.

It is an uncomfortable place to be kicked around like a political football between the people and its representatives. On the positive side, we should now receive better access to the centre. However, I can’t say that I look forward to further examples of international cooperation on infrastructure in Leogane.

Tuesday, 26 October 2010

The destruction

The drive from the airport, come to think of it, any drive, is filled with a patchwork of internally displaced person (IDP) camps, piles of rubble, condemned and collapsed homes. Even a photograph of the scenery could not do justice to the reality of life in Haiti. An album might begin to offer a fair record of the completeness of the destruction; film might begin to show something of the disaster. Yet, truly to begin to understand Haiti, one has to make the journey to the country to experience first-hand what 1000 posts of a blog fail to do justice to.
It strikes me that this contribution to the WEP may mark a high watermark in my sensitivity to all that I see around me. One of my fellow volunteers is a professional photographer charged with keeping a photo record of the work we are doing. He refused the opportunity to photograph a flattened car still lying in state at the burial site that was dug for it nine months ago.
You see destruction in Technicolor that you can have only encountered in the comfort of a cinema. This was not the first time I had seen the flattened carcass of a Chevrolet, having experienced the thrill-ride beamed into countless cinemas across the world in the guise of a scene from a Hollywood blockbuster.
For a moment, on encountering it for the first time in Haiti, I allowed myself to imagine a masked avenger chasing his long-time adversary to what would become the point of the final stand-off. Pursued to the top of a high rise, our villain eventually plunges to his death onto a car below, shattered glass gives way to the screech of car alarm until the battle for life I lost by it and its newest passenger. With the dastardly criminal dead and buried, all that is left is the Chevy – abandoned.
Yet this scene in front of me was not thought up in the mind of a scriptwriter shot at great cost onto 8mm celluloid. It was a scene that must have been repeated time and again across the country when buildings collapsed crushing all in their wake on January 12th 2010 when the earthquake struck. Nearly nine months following the premiere, that particular film and its aftermath is still being screened across the country. It won’t win an Oscar, but perhaps it should merit more international attention.

Tuesday, 19 October 2010

Field trip

The Organization for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs(Ocha) invited us to collaborate on an evaluation of health needs for people affected by recent flooding. I attended a meeting at which it was decided that we would be part of a field trip to visit flood-affected areas along the riverbanks of Leogane. The purpose of our visit, or so I believed, was to report on whether it was necessary to provide emergency relief for the affected areas. We were working in consultation with the Haitian government office, the DPC(Civil and Public Works Department) whose remit it is to evaluate and respond to humanitarian disasters.
On arrival, two things became clear; firstly, this was not a humanitarian disaster – flooding is a chronic issue for many Haitians living in low-lying areas. It may be more precise, therefore, to call this a chronic ecological problem. Second, the CPD made it quite clear that we ought to provide more by way of aid and relief to those affected.
Flooding is apparent in the districts we visited; however, we were only able to visit three quartier due to disagreement between NGOs and the Haitian government. The situation became tense and it was felt that our presence as a convoy of 4x4s navigating through side roads was damaging. First, the DPC asked what the communities ‘needed’ and, as pointed out by a veteran with more than twenty years of experience in Haiti, this was no way to work on an independent evaluation. Second, our mere presence inferred that this first stage would lead to more support for the communities. Moreover, we had bypassed local ties, lacked sensitivity and had no planning for evaluation in each of the communities; this was a recipe for mismanagement in what turned out to be a difficult situation.
So, I made the decision to leave; we got back in the car and returned to the safety of the UN base. In an air-conditioned meeting room, we spent an hour discussing what we had seen. It was agreed that, though living conditions are unconscionably tough, the communities have learnt to cope with intermittent flooding as part of their lives. This is sad and, ideally, would change. Yet, it would take years of meticulous planning, developing the necessary skills to allow the communities to improve drainage, secure uncontaminated sources of water from wells. This would be complemented by long-term ecological projects to reduce flooding. Solutions take time and expertise; however, providing money for clean water, replacing lost possessions and cleaning pre-existing open wells which were inundated by floodwaters was not a long-term solution.
The meeting became heated as it became apparent that the NGOs would recommend no short-term action to provide aid to the affected areas. One expert commented that this would be reported as another example of NGO inaction on local radio, building mistrust of their work. It would, however achieve a political purpose – to provide the government with someone else to blame for the persistent low living standards of many Haitians.
There was a mismatch between what the NGOs wanted to achieve today and what the Haitian government wanted to secure for the communities. On the one hand, the NGOs had intended to take a scientific approach to measuring the size of communities, the number of functioning wells, toilets and living conditions to assess whether a serious catastrophe had occurred. On the other hand, our hosts, were looking for cast-iron guarantees of support for the people. This was understandable; the DPC are appointed by politicians and so wanted to demonstrate three weeks before a Presidential election that they were adept at finessing aid from the international community.

Saturday, 16 October 2010

Arts and crafts

I used to dread art class – little talent and a slapdash approach to
painting, drawing and every medium in between. So it was revelatory to
find out I was not alone in my disdain for all things creative.
Except, for the Haitian women involved in TBT’s income generation
project, in stark contrast to my childhood indiscipline, it may have
been the difference between success and failure.

I observed as our project leader, a talented artist from Israel tried
to maintain focus in a class of twenty women who, in vain, were trying
to get to grips with the fundamentals of papier mashe, drawing and
painting. Their age range spanned four decades from a twenty-something
with two young children to a widow etched with the seams of an arduous
existence. The purpose of the class was to inculcate a basic sense of
the work ethic of the factory and teach them to bring their newly
acquired skills to a level of self-sufficiency. With all the willing
in the world, this proved to be an unequivocal struggle.

The group seem not to understand the basis for their training period
which was, firstly, to ensure that whatever was produced was not
bought merely in sympathy, secondly, the product should meet some
minimum standard, third, money was not instantaneous. Having craved
the hand-outs which world attention brought following the earthquake,
along with an addiction to aid, the imperative of the project was to
decouple Haiti’s women from donor pledges, provide a long-term revenue
stream, and, if successful, to ensure that the women's cooperative
contributed to the community.

At this early stage, I have no idea as to whether this will be a
success. If one of you out there would like to buy some Christmas
decorations or religious designs, I can get you a good discount.

Friday, 15 October 2010

The heat

Package holiday firms have been known to offer part refunds if the
weather undershoots expectations. Though 28 degrees Celsius with air
almost saturated with humidity might not lead to a successful claim,
one might be excused for soliciting recompense. A holiday in such
climbs would be unbearable to even the most seasoned explorer.

Yet that is precisely the situation in which I find myself. For each
day is cool by the standards of the warmer climes that many a British
holidaymaker escapes to during the summer. Yet in Haiti the heat is
unimaginable until experienced. It is a good job that I am not here
for a holiday. Save for a cold shower, you would stay in an almost
permanent state of perspiration.

The daily struggle of work becomes more tiresome when the humidity
sets in. You cannot escape from it without the vast expense of air
conditioning. Supermarkets, therefore, are welcome relief from the
discomfort.

Sleeping in such heat becomes an achievement. The air is close and
soon your bed is utterly drenched with the balmy heat of the night.
There is no respite – no yearned for breeze to keep us going.

Monday, 11 October 2010

Always leaving you desperate for more

This is going to be short. I wanted to get the creative juices flowing and, in the first instance, to let you know I have arrived.

First, I must make an apology. As I have not set up internet and the likelihood of doing so in the near future is slim, posts may be mere scraps of information about what I am doing. Fear not, avid reader, however, for I have begun to compose a series of posts which will be released at regular intervals once I am connected in a more reliable way.

I am coming to you from the comfort of the cafe. Internet is snail-paced, there is no cafe and it's a touch loud for my liking. To reach it,I had the pleasure of my first journey on a mototaptap. I have quickly, in line with the most devout voodoo followers, become resigned to my fate. I will have to take, what is essentially a motocross bike for three wherever I travel within Leogane and that is that.

It is not for the faint hearted. Mindful that some of my closest friends and family (and girlfriend) may (if I am lucky) be concerned for my safety, I will not go into detail. All I will add, is that it is the safest and quickest way to travel save for a panzer tank on roads which are sometimes blocked with earthquake detritus, cows, goats and people.

I hope to post something more substantial very soon and can't wait to hear from a few more of you.

Sunday, 3 October 2010

Tevel B'Tzedek

Machete in hand, shredding jungle foliage, thick and overgrown, like a lonely tramp in the wilderness. The wind whips up bristling through the trees bringing the sounds and smells of the surrounding hinterlands. Eventually, one emerges to find an untouched hamlet, still grieving, still rebuilding in the aftermath of disaster. The explorer, ashen-faced, walks purposefully to the nearest elder to pronounce, “it is ok, I am here to help”. As the gentle bubble of an oneiric thought bursts, I realise I have not arrived at this fabricated reality. Instead, I wake from a comfortable snooze, enveloped by soft, downy sheets.

Seven days prior to my arrival, and I am not sure what to expect. Indeed, in prejudging what I am about to embark upon, it would be just as futile to draw upon accumulated experience as dreams.

In writing, I have to thank an education as arbiter for my prejudice. I am also grateful to my brother for drawing my attention firstly, to the importance of the facts - which means a focus on the work I will be doing in country. Secondly, to how that may interact with a wider purpose - to improve the diurnal struggle that is life for all of us. I realise that it is a good job I won’t turn up alone, isolated and indifferent to the culture. There will be others to draw on for advice, namely the NGO for which I will be working, Tevel B’Tzedek.

TBT, is an Israeli NGO which acts in a simple yet revolutionary way in low income countries. Instead of promising the earth and delivering dust, TBT provides a framework for communities to help themselves. There is no cash for water pumps, no food aid for households, no bricks and mortar for schools. In place of one-off donations are time and expertise directed towards the needs of the community.

In a country that has just agreed a $10billion aid package with the United Nations (roughly equivalent to annual GDP), it is striking that an ‘aid’ organization spends nothing on hand outs. The objective of TBT’s work is to use technological know-how and human capital, coupled with an enthusiasm for local activism to unlock the potential of the community. I will be amongst eight volunteers, beginning our work in November following an intense introduction.

Conscious of a tendency to make premature comment, I will do my best not to reduce what is one of the most complex and difficult subjects, development, in one of the most complex countries, Haiti, to mere snippets of cumbersome prose. Therefore, I will say no more about the country which will become my home for four months or more; nor will I add my opinion to the subject of how to ‘fix’ Haiti as though it were as artless as replacing a snapped fan-belt.

To reiterate, if there ought to be a wider objective to this blog, perhaps it should be to ask whether TBT’s model of development will thrive in the unique surrounds of Haiti. This won’t be answered overnight; alas, it may take an entire career to begin to unpick the pitfalls of any ‘method’ of development. Moreover, in the final analysis, I can only interpret what I have seen through the lens of my own prejudice - for which I make no apology.